A Travel Writer Who’s Seen It All Still Finds Surprise and Awe in Iran


Reading and writing about Iran could not prepare Pico Iyer for the warm, modern society that greeted him.

Our burly driver in the baseball cap kept his eyes on the road as my unfailingly suave guide, Ali, chatted away. We’d barely left the holy metropolis of Mashhad, in northeastern Iran, on our way to the small, ancient town of Tus, and already Ali was discoursing on flowers and mystics and philosophers and empire. Other than a quick hello, our driver, ... Read More

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